The Casanova di Neri 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Giovanni Neri is a lifted and punchy wine with great vertical delivery of aromas. It ferments with 10% to 15% whole-cluster fruit. Giovanni and Gianlorenzo Neri noticed brown stems and perfumed aromas, and these qualities gave them the inspiration to use the stems. Cherry and red fruit aromas are followed by pepper, wild spice, sweet earth and dusty pencil shaving. There are hints of saddle leather on the one hand and pressed rosemary herb on the other. At the very end, there is a hint of something that tastes like a crunchy breakfast bacon strip. I do love the intensity and the energy of this wine. Only 8,600 bottles were created. Fruit comes from a seven-hectare parcel in the Sesti area (along the dirt road that goes from Castelnuovo dell'Abate to Sant'Angelo in Colle) that was purchased in 2017. The vines were planted in the 1970s. The wine ages in tonneaux for 30 months, and the tannins are beautifully integrated. Monica Larner, Robert Parker Wine Advocate

The 2020 Brunello di Montalcino Giovanni Neri pulls the taster down to earth as whiffs of sous-bois, ashen stones and animal musk dissipate to reveal layers of dried black cherry, lavender and rubbed sage. It's silken in feel, with hints of polished ripe red and blue fruit. A liquid floral concentration adds youthful tension. Structured, long and quite potent, it has sweet and round tannins that taper off with citrus-infused black currant and exotic spice aromas. The Giovanni Neri hails from nearly 50-year-old vines near Castelnuovo dell'Abate. It's a showstopper. Eric Guido, Vinous

Region: Montalcino, Tuscany, Italy

Grape Varietal: 100% Sangiovese

Critic Rating: Robert Parker Wine Advocate 97 Points, Vinous 95+ Points

Suggested Drink Window: 2025 - 2048